Jewelry Terms
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z #
Select the first letter of the word from the list above to jump to appropriate section of the glossary. If the term you are looking for starts with a digit or symbol, choose the '#' link.
- A -
- Anneal
- To subject metal to a process of heating and slow cooling in order to reduce brittleness or hardness.
- To soften metal alloys.
- Arbor
- A cylindrical shape or shaft which wire or tubing is wrapped to produce a coil or ring.
- Assay
- Analysis of a substance, especially of a precious metal, to determine its components.
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- B -
- Back
- See Clutch.
- Barb
- See Burr
- Beveled
- To impart a sloping edge to or have a sloping edge or slant. To cut at an inclination that forms an angle other than a right angle. The angle of a line or surface that meets another at any angle but 90 degrees.
- Bezel
- The upper, faceted portion of a cut gem. A groove or rim used to strengthen an object, hold it in place, or attach it to another object designed to hold a beveled edge, as of a gem.
- Blank
- A piece of material prepared to be made into something by a further operation. A manufactured article of a standard shape or form that is ready for final processing, as by stamping or cutting. To punch or stamp from flat stock, especially with a die.
- Brass
- A yellowish, metallic alloy consisting essentially of zinc and copper in variable proportions widely used in costume jewelry.
- Bridge jewelry
- The area of jewelry which falls between the costume and fine price point. Bridge normally refers to sterling silver, gold filled, and semi-precious stone products.
- Burr
- A rough edge or area remaining on material, such as metal, after it has been cast, cut, or drilled. Also referred to as a barb.
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- C -
- Carat
- The unit of weight for precious stones, equal to 200 milligrams
- Casting
- A method of manufacturing jewelry or jewelry components by pouring liquid metal into molds. When the molten metal hardens the item is then broken from the mold leaving the solid object.
- Catch
- A piece of hardware designed to accept and lock a hinged topwire or a pin stem. View example.
- Clasp
- A fastening device, such as a catch or hook, used to hold two or more objects or parts together, as with chains.
- Clutch
- The receiving component which slides over an earpost on an earring to keep the earring attached to the ear. Also referred to as Earnut or Back.
- Cubic Zirconia
- A synthetic gemstone used in jewelry as an imitation diamond. Cut with the same brilliance, weighing 80% heavier, does not have the strength properties of a diamond.
- CZ
- Abbreviation. Cubic Zirconia.
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- D -
- Dap
- To form a flat piece of material into a domed or modulated shape.
- Die
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- E -
- Earnut
- See Clutch
- Earpost
- The short wire extending from a pierced earring which goes through a pierced hole in the ear. Used with a Clutch to attach earring to ear. Available with straight cut ends or bullet nose. Notches are often found near the tip of the wire to lock the clutch.
- Earwire
- Electroforming
- A method of electroplating a layer of metal over formed wax to capture the design of the wax. In the process the wax is melted out leaving only the "hollow" metal shell.
Electrolytic Process
- Electrolyte
- A chemical compound that ionizes when dissolved or molten to produce an electrically conductive medium. A conducting solution or molten salt is a type of electrolyte.
- Electroplating
- A process of coating or covering an electroconductive material with a thin layer of metal through the electrolytic process. To plate, as with silver and gold.
- Eurowire
- See Leverback.
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- F -
- Finding
- Fishhook
- See Earwire.
- Flat ring
- A ring mounted on a horizontal plane.
- Fusion
- 1. A spot welding process.
- 2. The merging of different elements into a union resulting from fusing.
- 3. Fusion welding technology uses an electrical charge to bond parts together by melting metal alloys at a very focused point of contact. This method of bonding is preferred over other conventional bonding methods such as soldering or brazing methods which usually result in the annealing of the parts being bonded. With fusion welding there is no annealing, burning or distortion.
- Fusion welding has been a mainstay in the jewelry industry for many years. Fusion provides a fast, clean bond between similar and dissimilar metals when using fusion findings.
A large capacitor is used to store an electrical charge, like a battery. That charge is released through a fusion finding as it touches the surface of the receiving metal. A small explosion occurs which blows all of the oxides and gases away from the weld. For the next millionth of a second a vacuum exists, allowing the metals to bond in the residual heat.
Low temperature (pot metal) and lead bearing alloys are not compatible with fusion welding.
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- G -
- Gold
- A metallic element, dense, soft, ductile and malleable, used in making jewelry and in coinage
- Gold filled
- Alloy made of a hard base metal with an outer layer of gold.
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- H -
- Hard Solder
- To join or repair with solder using high temperatures. (over 1100° F)
- Hollow Goods
- Hollow goods usually refers to "shell" type items where two identical pieces of dapped metal are soldered together for a "puffed" look. Also, refers to items such as tubular hoops which are hollow inside unlike a solid wire or casting. Can also refer to electroformed parts which are hollow inside.
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- I -
- ID
- Abbreviation for inside diameter
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- J -
- Joint
- A component used to join a topwire to an earring. A hinge where two pieces meet.
- Jump ring
- A small ring made of wire which is used to link various jewelry components.
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- K -
- Karat
- A unit of measure for the fineness of gold, equal to one twenty-fourth part of pure gold in an alloy. Pure gold is 24 karat.
- Knurled
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- L -
- Leverback
- Lobster Claw
- A type of clasp closely resembling a lobster's claw.
- M -
- Marcasite
- Crystallized iron pyrites
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- N -
- Navette
- Nickel
- A silver-white, hard, malleable, ductile, metallic element capable of a high polish and resistant to corrosion that is used chiefly in alloys and as a catalyst. Used for electroplating, and used in manufacturing jewelry hardware, such as springs.
- Nickel Silver
- A silver-white alloy of copper, zinc, and nickel, usually in proportion 3,1,1. Also called German silver.
- Nickel Free Plating
- Nickel Plating
- A thin layer of nickel spread over a metal surface by means of the electrolytic process, to improve its appearance or to prevent rusting. Often used as a base to add reflectivity to the finish coat of plating.
- Novelty
- Novelty or whimsical jewelry is less serious than traditional jewelry styling. Novelty can contain fun motifs, words, animals or icons. Most novelty is designed in the pin classification.
- O -
- (empty)
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- P -
- Peg
- A short wire found on a jewelry component that is used for mounting a pearl. Glue is applied to this wire then the Pearl's hole is slid onto the wire. This wire usually has a knurled pattern to aid holding the glue.
- Pin Stem
- Plating
- To coat as a metal, with another metal, especially by electrolysis. See Electroplating
- Post
- See Earpost
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- Q -
- (empty)
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- R -
Raw
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- S -
- Silver
- A soft, white metallic element , lustrous, malleable and ductile. One of the precious metals used in making coins, jewelry and fine ornamental wares.
- Silver-plate
- To coat an object with a thin layer of silver, especially by electroplating.
- Snap Settings
- A mounting, as for a jewel.
- Soft Solder
- To join or repair with solder using low temperatures. (under 1000° F)
- Solder
- A metallic alloy, commonly of tin and lead, used when melted to join metallic surfaces or mend breaks in metal objects.
- Spring ring
- Stamping
- An impression or a shape formed or cut out by application of a mold, form, or die. To imprint or impress with a mark, design, or seal.
- Standing ring
- A ring mounted on a vertical plane.
- Sterling silver
- An alloy made of 925 parts of silver with 75 parts of copper or another metal.
- Swedge
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- T -
- Tailored Jewelry
- A costume jewelry classification which describes goldtone or silvertone items. Tailored jewelry can be polished or textured but has no stones or color.
- Topwire
- The hinged wire used in a flip-top earring. Used with a hinge joint and catch. View example.
- Tubbing
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- U -
- (empty)
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- V -
- (empty)
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- W -
- (empty)
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- X -
- (empty)
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- Y -
- (empty)
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- Z -
- (empty)
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- # -
14/20GF
14KT
12/20GF
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